Day 116-122: miles 1667-1821.9

I'm at Government Camp right now, having just finished a great breakfast and waiting for Shade and Cheers to get into town. We did a big day of hiking yesterday - each of us just hiking until we were done for the day, however far we got. I managed to do 45 miles, which feels incredibly surreal! And I'm not even feeling that sore! (yet). We'll hang out here for the day, then head on tomorrow. It seems like Washington is now completely on fire, with more than a third of the PCT in the state closed off :( It feels bad knowing we'll have to skip so much more, but it simply is what it is. We've got to take it as it comes and make the most of it. It's also a nice excuse to come back in some future year and fill in the gaps!

Day 116: mile 1667.1-1688.9

Had a nice recovery day after our late night yesterday. We slept in until around seven today, and I really needed it - it was a deep sleep! We were ready to go around eight and headed out, starting with an initial hill, then some downs, and took a break at the bottom near a trail crew working on blowdowns. Saw another big rattlesnake as we went over a blowdown! My feet were really killing me, just super sore on the bottom and my right foot was hurting on top. We then had a big hill, which had some very intense blowdowns and overgrown bits, where I couldn't see the trail at all. But I made my way through, listening to an episode of a podcast. The trail flattened out a bit, and I pushed on for a late lunch, not seeing Shade or Cheers, and goodness in my feet hurt. I sat with Duke and Sherlock for lunch, trying to elevate my feet . I was very low on water – I should've gone down to the last spring, but it was a bit off trail and a comment said it was just mud. Right as I was packing up for lunch, Shade came by – turns out they were down at the spring, which was slow but still flowing. Oh well. Another hill before the next water, and I ran out halfway up, so was very happy to fill up when I got to the spring where Shade and Cheers were resting. Then onwards again, with some ups and downs before a solid downhill to camp. We took it easy today, with just under 23 miles – funny whatever recovery day looks like now! Got to camp around 6:45, had some great pasta for dinner, then headed to bed.

Day 117: mile 1688.9-1713.6

Slept in a bit today since we're only doing 25 miles or so, and headed out at seven. Started with some down and then a solid hill, but halfway up we hit the California/Oregon border! The Donomore fire had closed this section for a bit, so we were really happy to be able to actually hike across the border. The fire has since been fully contained with just a bit of smoke on the horizon. It's so exciting to finally be out of California, as amazing and beautiful as it's been, and I'm excited to see what has to offer. I finished the hill and got some water, then headed on, enjoying a nice downhill and hitting mile 1700. Lots of gorgeous pine trees in this section, and the weather has finally started to cool! It's almost strange to be hiking in decent temperatures and not feel my soul getting sweat out as I hike. There were also some incredible views of Shasta today! We had lunch near the start of the next hill, and I was almost cold – what a novelty! Got up the hill, listening to some music – my feet were feeling a lot better too, though still a bit sore. At the top of the hill was a gorgeous ridge section with lots of flowers, and then a cooler of drinks! I enjoyed a root beer before heading on, mostly all downhill with lots of wildflowers. Passed quite a few dayhikers, then filled up on water before going 1.5 more to camp. The trail here is also a Nordic ski trail, and it was very cool to see all the signs. Camping with Shade, Cheers, Sherlock, and Duke, then heading to Ashland in the morning.

Day 118: mile 1713.6-1719.8

Slept in before heading out for just 6 miles into Ashland. We walked to Callahan's Lodge to get an easier hitch, getting into town around 10:30 and heading straight to a breakfast spot called the Morning Glory, where I got fantastic huevos rancheros and hashbrowns. Then we went downtown to the outfitters where I got new shoes - for 50% off too! Hopefully this helps my foot pain – I got Timbs which are known to have better cushion than the Lone Peaks I've been wearing. We wandered the town a bit, it's really adorable, then went to the library and submitted our entry permits – it's a little late, but we'll see how fast they get approved. I finally mailed off some postcards and headed to Safeway to resupply, calling my mom and dad as I did. I got offered a hitch to the hotel, where I was able to check in, take a long shower, and swim in their fantastic heated pool! Then laundry and relaxation, and I ordered some Indian food for dinner and ate in bed. Then relaxed a bit more and fell asleep.

Day 119: mile 1719.8-1740.9

Got a late start this morning as I had to run into town to get a new fuel can, stopping at the farmers market on the way. We hitched back to the trail around 10:45 and headed off, passing the Pilot Rock as we went, which was a very cool view. This is a dry area with lots of oaks and pines and dead grass. We had lunch in spring, then carried on. I'm carrying so many snacks, but I'll probably need them all - at this point more than half of my pack weight is food since I'm eating so goddamn much. I listened to a podcast after lunch, got water from a very dingy pond, and got to camp just after seven. Had pasta for dinner and then headed to bed. I'm camping here with Shade, Cheers, Plankton, Happy Camper, Breezy, Juggernaut, and Tips. Quite the group!

Day 120: mile 1740.9-1768.2

Left camp around seven, getting to water soon after. Then some uphill in the trees, with a break for water and snacks around 11. Then another uphill, with lunch most of the way up near a spring. It's a lot drier here than I expected – quite a few of the water sources are dry now, so we have to be careful to check all the comments on Farout. After the hill, it was lovely and flat. A lot less smoky today, but not really any views to enjoy it, since we've been in tree cover for most of the day. My stomach's been bothering me a bit, but hopefully it's nothing to be concerned about. Got water at the South Brown Shelter, then carried on for another 4 miles to camp. There were so many huckleberries in this section! The last mile or so was on sharp, pointy, red volcanic rocks – not great on the feet. The new shoes feel good, but the pain is definitely still there, just a bit better than before. Got to camp and greeted the very curious deer that was inspecting us. The mosquitoes were a little too thick, so we had dinner in our tents and went to bed.

Day 121: mile 1768.2-1797 + 0.4 off-PCT

We're doing just over 29 miles today, so I headed out around six, crossing some cool lava fields early on with a great view of Mount McLoughlin. My stomach was bothering me a bit – I think I need to eat more greens and fiber. Stopped at water 6 miles in after crossing the highway and had a brief rest. Then carried on for another 12 miles to lunch at Christi's Spring, where we saw Axeman again! Mostly under tree cover today but with occasional glimpses of the mountains around us, which still have a good bit of snow. Lots of blowdowns too, so it was a little slow going. But I put on a podcast and hiked on. Near the end of the day, we got up on a ridge and had some very good views! It's a lot colder too – I had to wear a jacket at camp, and it was nice and overcast, with a brief sprinkling of rain. After the heat wave, I'm never going to stop being grateful for anytime I'm slightly cold. We camped by Snow Lake, which was really lovely, if a little cramped, and enjoyed a gorgeous sunset. We're gonna get to Crater Lake tomorrow and nail down a reroute for the next round of fires - the Middle Fork fire has closed the PCT near Crater Lake, though the rim alternate trail is still open as of now. And then the Diamond Peak Complex fires have closed a large section after Crater Lake, so we'll have to find our way around those as well.

Day 122: mile 1797-1821.9 + 1.3 off-PCT

Left camp around 6:15 and headed back to the trail, then through more burn zone. I got some good views on a ridgewalk before heading downhill – passing mile 1800 – to water where I took a short break. Then onwards. I was feeling pretty slow and groggy, so I listened to some podcasts and hiked on. Lots of burnt trees and blowdowns here which slowed me down even more. We had lunch near a pond off trail, in a small bit of shade between burn zones. Then continued on with some ups and downs, a couple good views, and lots and lots of blowdowns that made it hard to find the trail. My left shoe was annoying me a bit, so I stopped to adjust a couple times. Then more forest before finally getting to the road into Mazama Village near Crater Lake. I took a shortcut down and made my way to the PCT camp, a lovely section in the woods across from the car camping sites. I met up with Shade and Cheers there and set up my tent, then we all headed to Annie Creek Restaurant for dinner. My stomach has not been super happy with me lately, so I got a Mediterranean bowl and tomato soup. Hopefully more veggies will help. Then we popped into the campground store and picked up my box, then to the campground host to look at their hiker box, and finally to the camp showers. Only I wanted to wait around for it to become available, so I got a somewhat lukewarm shower with no soap – but I'll take what I can get. It was actually quite cold walking back to camp, which is a sensation I have a new appreciation for after that heat wave! Went to bed and excited to sleep in a bit.